See Breguet Type XX and XXI pilot watches on eBay here.
Gold with engraved and black lacquered GF logo
The case of course has a sapphire crystal, and is water resistant to 100 meters. Inside the watch is an automatic ETA 2892 movement. Pretty much everything you would expect from a standard Bell & Ross BR03-92 watch, but now in green and with a ceramic case. The watch will come with either a gray commando style rubber strap, or a matching green synthetic fabric (nylon I guess) Velcro strap. The AR coating on the crystal makes the dial really easy to read, and I love the two green tones on the dial (of course there is lume). A good look, and really fits with the "war games" theme that revolved around in my mind as I wore this watch. If anybody out there knows a stylist, please tell them about this watch so it can show up in the next Hollywood military movie with great special effects and a preachy plot. I really want to see Mr. Military Ceramic in action. The watch should be in stores in the next few months.
Pierre DeRoche is one of those interesting indy luxury watch brands you could go your whole life without noticing, but you'd be missing out on some interesting stuff. You might have heard of them if you are like me, so you'll be happy to check out my review of their fascinating SplitRock watch. A unique name for sure, there is nothing "rocky" about it. Though I will say that all of the brand's collections do have geologic style names. Aside from the SplitRock, there is the GrandCliff, and the Shiny Pebbles. The SplitRock comes in many flavors, I actually discussed one of its "artier" forms here when talking about the SplitRock Dare watch. In the 'standard' collection there are at least five different styles - including one with orange numerals and a diamond decorated version.
Attached to the watch is a matching tungsten bracelet that is pretty comfortable and nice looking. Again, the overall look of the watch is acceptable and conservative. A respectable looking timepiece that isn't gonna win any beauty contests, but looks nice, and is a good value for the price. The case has a sapphire crystal and the case is water resistant to 30 meters.
The case itself is 44mm wide in DLC black. Notice the thin blue line that extends around the periphery of the side of the case. It is a neat little detail helping the case of the watch to stand out. The colors are also of course those of the Williams team. The little blue line is actually rubber, and Oris says it acts like a bumper to protect the case (a bit). Though with the DLC coating, it shouldn't need as much protection. The case of course has the special hinged lugs that help the watch be really comfortable, and comfortable it most certainly is. The numerals on the bezel flow naturally into the several rows of numerals and indexes on the dial. The black metallic dial has some hour indicators that are actually cut slits showing the day and date discs below. An interesting rendition on the skeletonization theme.
You'll notice that Oris has refined the look of the "open date" window. The almost triangle-like shape now integrates the day and date indicators and allows for that "open date" design. Oris watches are often innovators when it comes to continuously polishing existing designs. I appreciate them for that. Reading the watch isn't touch at all. The hands have larger lume covered sections in white that contrast nicely with the dark dial. The blue bordered race-font style hour numerals are easy to spot as well - while there are lots of little lumed sections of the dial.
For starters you should know that Eterna makes all the watches for Porsche Design. So it seemed pretty clear that this was a deliberate move, meant to erase the history of the KonTiki Diver! If you compare the two watches, the Porsche Design P'678 Diver is a bit more simple, streamlined, and hopefully a bit less expensive. The KonTiki Diver retailed for bout ,000. Though it had a ton of cool technology. The complex titanium case flipped out of a cage for winding and for a new position on the wrist. It just felt totally space age. Also, you needed to pull out the inner case so as to move the bezel - that while you operated from the outside, turned on the inside. Powering the the 1000 meter KonTiki Diver watch was an automatic ETA 2897 movement with the time, date, and power reserve indicator. It was pretty kick-ass. So what happened? Well apparently Eterna didn't sell a lot of them. According to them, the watch "didn't fit into the brand." Most people don't really know about Eterna, especially in the US. If they do, they likely have some vague concept of the brand's merits, even though it is a great brand. They actually started ETA before selling it to the Swatch Group.
As a classy watch with interesting but subtle character, and a great level of technological sophistication, the Seiko SNR005 is a great choice. There are other models in this collection available with different colors or various complications. If this collection just isn't for you, then you are probably still interested in Seiko Spring Drive. Honestly, the appeal of the movement is hard to resist. There is a growing collection of Spring Drive movement based watches. From Ananta, to Grand Seiko, and others - this is going to be a special marquee for Seiko for the foreseeable future. Yes, the price for Spring Drive watches is more than you might expect from Seiko, but these are really different watches. In my opinion if you upgrade from more mainstream Seiko or Japanese watches to Spring Drive or another high-end Seiko watch, you will be pretty satisfied with your investment. www.seikospringdrive.com, seikousa.com
I did a survey on Luxist within the last year that was a survey of the “best” luxury watch brands according to the site’s readers who participated in the poll. I had to choose five brands, and among those was IWC. With a strong, focused product line, and an emphasis on performance and gentlemen’s sport activity, I felt that the brand resonated particularly well with American audiences. While such polls aren’t hard science, the result was that Luxist readers felt that IWC was the best luxury watch brand. Beating the likes of others such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet.
Listen to the HourTime Interview with Xetum Watch Co. founder on starting a watch brand.
The synthesis of this new book is actually really interesting, and kind of unusual. Most books are created with very specific purposes in mind — to sell copies, and make money. This book is a little different. While IWC of course wants to sell as many copies as possible, the book has other value. First, I think that IWC simply wanted to have a good grasp on its own history. I don’t know whose idea it was to make the book, but CEO George Kern but the ball in motion a while ago to chronicle the history and story of IWC. In cooperation of current and former IWC employees, as well as many historical documents, the task was given to German writer and journalist Manfred Fritz. It took him a few years to finish the job, but the result was a quite competent collection of the history and activities that made up the International Watch Company. The book would serve as a base, for while all future brand history could be added to. The value to Kern was that IWC could finally have a detailed and relatively precise authority on its history, values, and tradition. A very Germanic thing to do yes, but IWC is located in Schaffhausen which is quite close to Germany, and in the German speaking part of Switzerland.
That said, the watch itself is pretty nice looking. I'm not fond of the Rolex-style cyclops over the date, though some quite like them [Ed. note. You'll see some hands-on images I took with watch here. I believe that the magnifier crystal is actually reverse mounted (inside the crystal) so as not to stick out of the crystal]. The fixed bezel is less useful than a rotating one, but on the other hand it's filled with luminescent paint for a cool look in the dark. The textured and detailed dial has good balance and attains the not-too-busy look a good dress watch. The dark green GMT hand lurks in the visual background, behind mirror-polished hour and minute hands and the signature second hand with Ball logo counterpoise. Overall a good looking watch, with the bulked-up look Ball produces.