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Omega Speedmaster Rattrapante 3540.50

Doctorate student (marine biology) - currently at Stockholm University.

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Aside from basic features that any rugged dive watch need, the Essex La Primera GMT has a few unique features that help it stand out. One of these is the metal bracelet that I am sure you haven't seen before. Love it or hate it, the bracelet was developed for the brand and works pretty well. Think of it is a hybrid between a mesh metal bracelet and a traditional metal link bracelet. It is actually executed rather watch - presenting a comfortable fit, and nice feel to the touch. The design does seem to go with the watch case and dial. Essex also wanted to make sure that the bracelet and case were flush together without any gaps.

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So let's chat about what the watch does. The default view of the dial (see above) has a centrally mounted seconds hand and retrograde minute hands. The hours are told via the upper subsidiary dial. This is a variation on the regulator style dial, but with a retrograde hand. The lower part of the dial is a date indicator. Good luck reading that one. Over the date dial is a transparent bridge made out of synthetic sapphire. When you get bored of this, you can transform the watch into chronograph mode.

Such is the difficulty in working on the Calibre 101 that only a handful of watchmakers have fully mastered the techniques required. What I really like about the Calibre 101 is that by necessity each part has to be tailor-made and adjusted, making each one of the movements a handcrafted piece unique. And, though the movement isn’t a limited edition in the strictest sense, the production is certainly limited, with only 50 able to be made each year.

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Now luxury brand Urwerk offers a new comic strip (see below to check it out). I think the idea is brilliant. Why has it taken until modern times to do this? Because stuffy people in luxury watch company's were afraid of diluting the "prestige" of their brands with dirty comic book. Psh... what is this? 1986? Comic art has defined  much of the last generation. What do you think rich people under 35 are going to associate with more positively. Cool graphic novel imagery for a new watch, or sponsoring a polo tournament?

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In platinum, the watch case and dial of this Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes (yes, spelled like that) watch feel as though they were milled from a solid piece of the precious metal. There is so much platinum in this watch - it boggles the mind. Actually, the the dial, markers, and hands are in gold - but they are toned to look like platinum. I believe that 2010 model of the Tourbillon 24 Secondes is only available in platinum. I am sure there will be gold models soon, but gold is... so pedestrian, right? Unlike the watch that is featured in the video, the platinum model for 2010 has a redesigned dial - which is better in my opinion - as well as some other changes.

Among the watch makers attending there is no one or two headliners, each of these guys is amazing at what they do. I am glad that they could all be there together for the signing of 12 Faces of Time: Horological Virtuosos. If you can't make it, you can buy the book on Amazon for a good price (below it s retail cost).

Omega Speedmaster Professional 145.012-67

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What would really excite me is if Roland Iten ever got into the business of making watches. He has the skill and the vision, not to mention some amazing designs that feature the inventiveness of his other items. I got to check out some graphical representations of these Roland Iten concept watches, and they really impressed me. Soon Roland will also feature an impressive product that is part of a collaborative project with an important luxury car maker as well.

References:
TiVan15 version (Calibre 781): Q203T470 - ,700
Red gold version (Calibre 780): Q2032470 - ,400

U-Boat U 1001 Limited Edition Watch Review

U-Boat U 1001 Limited Edition Watch Review

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Louis Moinet chose the Valjoux 7750 movement for its durability, reliability, and to be honest , value. While the Louis Moinet Jules Verne Instrument watches aren't cheap, they could have been much more expensive. What I love about the choice of using a work-horse movement with a module, is that you get the best of a few worlds. The functions added by the modules in the movements are well integrated, perform nicely, and feel durable. These are important factors to me. As you can see, this is the Instrument # 2, which means that it has a split second chronograph. Here is how it works. You start the chronograph as normal. At any point, you press the pusher located at 10 o'clock and a little hand underneath the chronograph seconds hand stops. You can then start or stop it whenever you like and be able to measure a separate 60 seconds total, while the standard 12 hour chronograph is still running. It basically gives you the ability to time a shorter measurement without having to stop the main chronograph. It is pretty useful in certain situations. Likewise, with the Instrument # 1, having an adjustable GMT hour hand is useful for having a second timezone, or as an AM/PM indicator. Going back to the movement for a moment, you can see it through the sapphire caseback window on the back of the watch. It uses some blued screws, perlage polish, and a specially engraved rotor for decoration. Overall, with a movement such as this at this price level, I am satisfied.

Recon 5 is strapped with nice brown padded leather strap that's super comfy on wrist. Lugs are 22mm which is a nice substantial size for a watch of this size (44mm with out the crown). All in all this watch is proportioned nicely, it has substantial size with out being huge or uncomfortable.

Strap & Buckle: